3 wrong assumptions about "Worbla"
Since there are still some incorrect assumptions about the material, I wanted to list and refute or explain the most common assumptions here. Without going too far, let's get straight to the points:
I can never use that at LARP, the material will surely splinter and you can easily injure yourself!
Probably the most widespread rumor about Worbla, but hopefully also largely invalidated by it, I hope. First of all: Worbla does not splinter. That's almost impossible!
Yes, it can tear; you can bend it and yes, you can hack holes in it (e.g. with a knife, pickaxe or a very sharp object), but that's about it. The Worbla varieties consist of thermoplastics, which stick out of the mass and can therefore also be kneaded together. Depending on the variant, they are more flexible or firmer, as well as from sustainable production, with a high proportion of cellulose. Forget hard plastic in this case, Worbla doesn't behave like that. At trade fairs or workshops, I like to take a breastplate that is neither painted nor finished. It consists of only 1-2 layers of Worbla and is therefore really ultra simple. Contestants are then allowed to hit it with a rubber mallet while a body is stuck inside. If you were to hammer on a hollow body now, it could certainly be damaged. In other words, parts of the object could become detached. This is mainly due to the flexibility of the material, it can be bent. Nevertheless, this item only splits at the "predetermined breaking points" and does not splinter. I hope that I can take away everyone's fear of using this material in the armaments sector.
2. Worbla melts in the sun!
Well. ;) Here's a little something to consider. Normally you don't just use 1 layer of Worbla, but use the "sandwich" method (Worbla - cardboard/foam/leather/etc. - Worbla).Say it creates a certain thickness.In addition, the worbla is not left untreated afterwards. You paint it and seal it at the end. Worbla can activate easily though, so would be vulnerable to pressure if you only use one layer and long exposure to the laser sun. Worse, of course, if you leave your workpiece behind in the car in the summer at almost 35 degrees and more, on the windscreen. Even glaze, 3 coats and fingers crossed don't help much. It will most likely deform altogether unless good isobox and padding protection is provided, or the item is wrapped in a blanket and stored in the shaded area of the car. This is also how you should store your Worbla props in the tent.
3. Worbla only sticks on the smooth side!
The smooth side is just the side where the material has passed over the metal roller (the second roller is silicone) during the manufacturing process. Except for Worbla's Transpa Art (doesn't have glue of its own, but still sticks when melted under high heat), which has a few different rules, every Worbla is sticky on the either side after being properly heated.